Skincare is often over-complicated and over-hyped. We’re inundated with endless product recommendations for healthier, younger-looking skin day after day. While there are some high-quality, life-changing skincare formulas on the market, some just serve as the trend of the week or a strategic influencer campaign. We’re here to help you sift through all of the upselling, and find out what your skin truly needs when it comes to quenching its thirst with quality products.
When it comes to understanding the basics of skincare, it’s important to familiarize yourself with a few ingredients, also known as “the skincare trifecta”. These ingredients are found in everyday formulations and include:
- Humectants: draw moisture from surrounding areas of the skin to hydrate
- Emollients: add back moisturizing oils to the skin
- Occlusives: creates a physical barrier to prevent moisture loss
The Humectant
A humectant is a water-based moisturizer that helps plump the surface of the skin by pulling water molecules from surrounding areas of the skin and the external environment. In dry climates, the skin will have a harder time drawing in moisture from the environment and will draw moisture from deeper layers of the skin to the surface instead. This may cause an unwanted drying effect as the skin barrier can be compromised.
Humectants are recommended for all skin types, as hydration is key for healthy skin. This ingredient is particularly well-suited for acne-prone skin, since it has a lightweight texture making it less likely to clog pores.
The most common humectants are hyaluronic acid, glycerin, and alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs). Natural sources include honey and aloe vera.
Pro tip: apply humectants to damp skin to help with product absorption. As an added bonus, pair it with an occlusive to lock in that moisture.
A few favorite hyaluronic acid formulations include the Triple Peptide + Cactus Oasis Serum by Youth to the People, Glass Skin Refining Serum by Peach & Lily, and Hyaluronic Sea Serum by OSEA.
The Emollient
An emollient is the second variable of the skincare trifecta and is often an oil-based moisturizer with a waxy texture to help soften the skin. It also helps maintain the integrity of the delicate skin barrier that is essential for healthy skin. All skin types benefit from emollient ingredients, including dry and sensitive skin to prevent water loss and lubricate the skin. They are especially helpful for those with psoriasis and eczema since the emollient helps soothe irritation.
Some common sources of emollients include plant oils such as jojoba oil, coconut oil, squalane, and fatty acids.
Emollient formulations can come in various textures, including lotions, creams, and ointments. The difference is the in their water-to-oil ratio, with lotions being mostly water and ointments being mostly oil.
Pro tip: avoid using extremely thick emollients all over the face, especially if you have naturally oily skin. This can lead to clogged pores which may cause skin congestion and acne. Additionally, be diligent when using emollients with other ingredients that can cause irritation with extended exposure. These ingredients may include retinol, AHAs, and BHAs.
Looking to lock in some deep moisture? Here are a few great formulas to incorporate into your routine: Daily Zen Radiance Cream by Asevida and Superfood Serum by Graydon Skincare.
The Occlusive
An occlusive is the final piece of the skincare trifecta and is a moisturizing ingredient that creates a thick, physical barrier on the skin to lock in moisture. Occluisves provide benefits for people with very dry, irritated skin, eczema, or other inflammatory skin conditions. This protective barrier is helpful in cold environments where the air is dry and there is low humidity. A recent skincare trend that took social media by storm known as slugging, also promoted the use of occlusives to seal in all of the goodness of your products.
Natural occlusives include shea butter, cocoa butter, and beeswax, which provide safer options for your skincare routine. More commonly, petroleum jelly, mineral oil, lanolin, and paraffin have been used as occlusive agents. We suggest staying informed when choosing these ingredients as they can produce harmful endocrine-disrupting effects due to improper refinement processes.
Pro tip: It is recommended that occlusives be used on extremely dry or cracked skin in colder weather to prevent overuse, irritation, congestion, or inflammation. Unless you use a multi-purpose product, always layer your products beginning with humectants, emollients, and then your occlusive to freshly cleansed skin. Another tip – don’t forget to layer on your SPF before your occlusive.
To get started on your moisture-locking wellness, try the le Blue Balm by Odacité and the Polypeptide-121 Future Cream by Youth to the People.
The Skincare Trifecta
Humectants, emollients, and occlusives are not mutually exclusive, as many ingredients can serve more than just one purpose. For example, aloe vera is both a humectant and emollient, whereas squalane can be used as an emollient or occlusive. To optimize your skincare routine, choose formulations that include the full skincare trifecta. That way, you get a harmonized blend that will provide a healthier, more radiant, and balanced complexion.